In between his Haute Couture Fall Winter 2010 runways at Paris fashion week and 080 Barcelona Fashion, Lee Jean Youn took time to answer some questions

Why did you pick Paris for your Haute Couture FW 2010 collection runway?  Did you do Seoul too?

［The first time］I presented my haute couture collection in Paris was Spring Summer 2010 collection back in January. After Paris show, I also presented my collection at Seoul Fashion Week in March. ［For Fall Winter 2010］, not only I have just done Paris show, but I was also being invited to show my collection at 080 Barcelona Fashion.

I want my design to be seen at as many countries as possible. Therefore, Seoul where I’m based in, Paris where haute couture designers have to be and other fashion leading countries are my priorities.

What has been your inspiration for the “The strange wedding ceremony? Why this name?

Wedding ceremony marks the beginning of a new life between two persons by the strange paths of destiny. Until after the day one saying goodbye to the other at the funeral, love continues to grow till meeting each other again in heaven. ［I］transformed these abstract ideas by combining opposite elements into ［my］ design, such as, black mini dress with white veil, and add amusing imagination and colors into extraordinary creations, bringing funeral and wedding elements together in a peculiar harmony. That demonstrates that love does exist in different rites of passages. That is why it is called “The Strange Wedding Ceremony”.

You introduced your SS 2010 collection 2 times. Once in Seoul and then in Paris. Did you design something new for Paris? If yes, Why? How?

The S/S10 Collection I showed in Paris and Seoul were the same but with small adjustment on the choreography and models selections.

Did SS 2010 Paris’ show draw new customers’s attention you didn’t get access to before? Did that change something in the way you have designed FW 2010 collection? Have you taken your new customers’ base into account while designing your FW 2010 collection?

［It did］. After I showed my SS 2010 Collection in Paris, I received attention not only from the international media but also from international buyers. I believe that being able to present my collection in Paris is definitely a gateway to bring my collection onto an international level.

Receiving attention from buyers and media would not affect my designing style because each season I will have a new concept and inspiration, which leads to different style.

Your design has grown up from layered (SS 2005), heavy fabrics like jeans, rich like velvets and wool (FW 2004), oversized outfits (FW 2005) to sleeker shape (brown gown, laced beige dress SS 2006), body fitting lines and smoother, lighter fabric like silk (Spring 2010). It’s obvious on your Mango’s lines from 2009 to 2010 as well. In just one year both collections are so different. What happened? Where are you going toward today?

FW 2004
FW 2004

SS 2005

FW 2005

SS 2006

SS 2010

MFA 2008

MFA 2009

I want to explore combination of fabrics with different texture. It’s what you saw in my previous and most recent collections. The only difference is the use and choice of fabrics/materials that I use［today］. For example in the F/W 2010 Collection, I combine organza and leather, crocodile leather with denim in my shoes and bags etc.

Every season I come up with a new concept. Therefore there is not a fixed pattern of where I am going toward in design. However my goal in design is to make beautiful clothes for women to wear.

I loved the men’s pieces you made back in fall 2006. It was leather jacket, big comfy sweater, large pants, large belts that lengthened the figure. Any willing to design more for men?

I like to explore many different things. But at the moment I will［focus］on my haute couture line ［and］add in some new ideas on accessories such as shoes and bags.

No news from you between fall 2007 and Spring 2010, apart 1st Mango Fashion Award competition. 2 years off the scene. Where were you on all that time?

In Korea, males are required to serve military service. That’s where I was during that time.

Your collection for Mango Fashion Award 2009 was rather simple and easy going yet elegant. The fabrics were smooth like silk. The colors were solid. No texture. Why did you make it so different from your own creations?

The collection I designed for MFA competition in 2009 was both Korean influenced and at the same time designed for western high street fashion market. I developed my concept from the core of the beauty of Korean traditional garments. It gave me a chance to display what I could do best in terms of designing and tailoring skills. In all my previous collections I used a lot of clean and light colors, which were somewhat considered “Korean” or “Asian”. But MFA was an international competition. I wanted my designs to speak to everyone and to be shared with the world.［That explains］ the color and fabric choices.

The limited-edition “LEE JEAN YOUN For MANGO” I did after winning the competition is a mix of simplicity and romance of the Orient with a hint of European chic/rock. Considering the collection was for MANGO, I thought the items should have also been practical and easy for mix-n-match. I designed a total of 15 looks including shoes and bags.  11 looks are now available to retail. You can check suits, dresses, wrap-around trousers, shoulder pieces and tricot out.

I heard that you want to hit NYC soon. Enough of Seoul and Paris? NYC is it the place to be as a fashion designer?

New York City has the greatest concentration of design talents in the world. And it’s at the forefront of fashion innovation. Today, I am based in Seoul, Korea. I am planning to open my showroom and shop in New York. But Paris is still a very important place for me to present my haute couture collection.Once I start my business in New York, I hope to participate in New York Fashion Week in the near future. My goal is to make “LEE JEAN YOUN” an international brand, which will last for decades. I want my designs to be recognized by the industry and loved by many people in the world.

As a designer, what does Seoul fashion scene mean to you? Paris’? NYC’s?

Like I said before, New York City has the greatest concentration of design talents in the world and is at the forefront of fashion innovation. As for Paris, it’s where every couture designer wants to present his/her collection. Seoul is where I learned my knowledge, techniques and skills in fashion design. Many of my creations are with Asian influence, which ［is immensely influenced］by the traditional Korean culture.

The shoes and accessories (bags, jewelry) you presented in Paris are there your design or from a partner? Where to shop them?

All the bags and shoes that you saw in Paris are my own design and creations.

They are made-to-order. Buyers interested in to order them can contact my staff directly.

12.  Where can we buy your clothes? in Europe? In France?

All the clothes, shoes and bags are made in Korea.

Again they are made-to-order. You can place your order directly to my staff.

13.  Is that yourself who was throwing flowers’ petals down the stage just before the runway started?

That was me. Every detail of the fashion show including music, choreography, makeup and hair and even stage setting, I put a lot of considerations and thoughts into it. I want my audience and guests not only to be able to enjoy my design but at the same time to experience the story and concept behind the collection.

Hey, Wait! You might also like

• Lee Jean Youn’s strange wedding ceremony
• Get it shorter
• Daria Werbowy for H&M Fall 2010 campaign

Author: Gaelle